Mark 'n Mike's Jewish Delicatessen in San Francisco's Ferry Building
The smallest "big" sandwich I've ever had.
Though impossible to confirm, it’s highly probable that the first delicatessen to ever exist was Jewish. If true, then the Jewish people have been delicatessening (verbing a noun - you saw it here first folks) for about 350 years. Furthermore, many of the most beloved and successful delicatessens in the United States (particularly in NYC - there’s an old saying: “If you were born in NY, you were born Jewish even if you were baptized”) were/are Jewish: The 2nd Avenue, Katz, Carnegie, Ratner’s – the list goes on and on.
I’m not Jewish, but I think the reason Jewish delicatessens are so popular is that they are much much more than just a place to get a good bite. Jewish delicatessens are cultural touchstones. Going to a deli is one of the ways that Jewishness is expressed, connected with, and enjoyed. It gives the Jew a sense of belonging and surfaces other, related memories. It’s a good feeling.
Most food cultures are geographical, not religiously themed. In fact, the Jewish food culture is the only one I’m aware of (ever heard of a Christian deli? Can you imagine a Scientology-themed Delicatessen?). Then again, one could argue all day whether Judaism is a religion, ethnicity, culture or heritage (and the Jews that I know and love do enjoy a healthy debate).
The point of all of this is to say that the Jewish delicatessen – with its beef tongue sandwiches, latkes, matzo ball soup, gefilte fish, knishes, and pastrami on dark rye – is a uniquely powerful animal in the deli kingdom in many different respects. The only other deli theme I can think of in my admittedly limited experience that has this kind of draw is the Italian delicatessen. The Italian food traditions are also ancient, unique, deeply ingrained, beloved by many (if not most - let’s face it) and also a great way to connect with your Italian cultural heritage. Even to this day, zucchini tortas and focaccia bread remind me of my nonna’s wake.
I’ve seen local-food-themed, bakery-themed, butcher-themed, music-themed, pirate-themed and even Dracula-themed (“scary good” they say – har har) delicatessens. But, as a deli owner, no matter what you do, it’s hard to beat the natural magnetism of a Jewish or Italian delicatessen done right. They’re natural winners.
San Francisco’s Mark ‘n Mike’s Jewish Delicatessen
I went with the whole family, complete with oldest son Nick who was home from college for spring break, to the farmer’s market at Ferry Plaza to get some ingredients for our dinner.
Mark 'n Mike’s is a Saturday-only food stall delicatessen on the plaza side of the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market AND a deli service run out of One Market - the 28-year-old restaurant just on the other side of the Ferry Building (open for takeout and delivery Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays). Mark ‘n Mike’s was started Michael Dellar, co-founder One Market and the former owner of a Jewish deli style foodtruck up in Napa called “Pastranomy.” The “Mark” is chef Mark Dommen who has helmed One Market’s kitchen since 2004.
Mark handed me my brisket sandwich, a thoroughly juicy number served on a toasted challah bun. The brisket is slowly cooked for 12 hours in a genuine Southern Pride smoker. Lots of yummy fat. Delicate and delicious. It was accompanied by sweet-tasting pickled jalapeno relish - a fantastic condiment, I must say – and a slice of American cheese. At first I was baffled by the choice of cheese. But after doing some research, it seems American cheese is part of the Jewish deli food tradition. And while I appreciate the authenticity, I cannot abide the inclusion of this disgusting “pasturized cheese product” (it’s not even real cheese.) Thankfully, didn’t really taste it, which is good because it tastes like chemicals to me.
My main quibble with this sandwich experience is that the menu, shown here, clearly states that these are “big” sandwiches – which, for $22, they’d very well better be. But they are not. At. All. Big. At least the one I got. So on the one hand, my taste buds are happy with the sandwich. On the other hand, I feel lied to and robbed. So it irks me sumn’ fierce and I simply cannot get past it. Great tasting sandwich, but nope, not going to do it again and I can’t recommend it.
I suppose this negative assessment of the suboptimal price-to-size ratio would make me worthy of the moniker “deli police.” That’s what Jewish deli folks call people who think anything in a Jewish deli must pass their judgment first. My opinion of the cheese might make me a “yenta” – which is what they call people who tells lots of stories but is very persnickety about the food. In fact, after 350 years of doing their thing, Jewish deli folks have a lot of fun linguistic shortcuts and Yiddishisms.
Sadly, the popularity of Jewish delicatessens, and delicatessens as a whole, experienced a sharp decline starting back in the mid-1900s as city dwellers scattered to the suburbs, rents became untenable, Jewish traditions became more diffuse, and people became more health-conscious. As a cultural influence, they're a shadow of what they were. That said, we have some pretty amazing Jewish delicatessens right here in the Bay Area with more on the way. Saul’s in Berkeley, Deli Board in SF, Augie’s Montreal Deli in Berkeley (temp closed), and about ten Wise Sons delis all over the place. Visit one of these. Have the pastrami. It’s always amazing.
Ess gezunt: Eat in good health.